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The Superiority of Dacca muslin was partly due to the superb quality of the Dacca cotton. The vernacular name of this cotton is uncertain, bairati kapas or photee. Dr. Roxburgh in his Flora Indica praises its matchless qualities, but the most important factor that contributed to its superlative qualities, was the exceptional skill required in the spinning and weaving of this fabric. The process used for the carding and testing of the yarn was extremely complicated, but even more specialised was the actual spinning of the yarn with a takua or pindle, instead of the usual spinning wheel. A certain degree of moisture was absolutely essential along with a particular level of temperature. Therefore, all spinning was done in the early morning or late afternoon, when there is greater moisture in the air. The spinners were young women, between the ages of eighteen and thirty, after which their expertise was said to wane due to failing sight. They belonged to a few families around Dacca and had acquired their remarkable skill over generations.
(Excerpted from "Jamdani" by Ruby Ghuznavi, Vice President, National Crafts Council of Bangladesh)
